Posted by: patriciamar | September 6, 2009

Dark green leafy vegetables

Matt and I were very excited to try some new food while we were at La Petite Kepa.  Meals are included (quite obviously, since there is almost nothing else and no one else on the tiny island).  So far, we have confirmed that lunch and dinner on Kepa, on Alor, maybe on most smaller islands in Indonesia, consist of several basic things.

Rice is the most critical, and then fish, usually fried in small chunks with or without bones (though sometimes grilled or boiled in a type of broth).  Lastly is some type of dark green and leafy vegetable, usually spinach, cooked with garlic.  I am not sure exactly what the necessary climate is for growing spinach, but they must have an enormous amount here.  We eat spinach almost every meal, and if not spinach, another vegetable that is not spinach, but looks a lot like it except tastes more bitter.

So there you have it, Indonesian small island food:  Fried chunks of fish, rice, and spinach or alternate dark green vegetable… Not surprisingly, I feel like we are quite healthy here.

Posted by: patriciamar | September 5, 2009

The Hammock

Lucky for me, I can just reach the floor of our elevated bamboo house while still staying seated in my hammock.  I admit, with a hammock at my parents’ house in MN and after living in Mexico, you would think I would have these things under control.  But really, they’re actually very hard to get in and out of…

Oh well, really, they’re so comfortable that by the time you are in one, you forget that you looked like a fool trying to properly situation yourself.

Posted by: patriciamar | September 4, 2009

Kepa

I think I may have died and gone to heaven.  Simultaneously, I have found the pieces of Indonesia that people travel miles to see…

We arrived around one o’clock in the afternoon, the heat of the day, so the trek here was like taking a daytrip across the surface of the sun.  Even the boat ride in our motor assisted canoe with bamboo floaters was struggling as it bucked waves across the channel.

Then we arrived, and I am certain that my life will never be quite the same.  There is a constant breeze, almost no bugs, a shaded bungalow for meals, tea, coffee, and water, fresh ocean air that I think could (and did) bring me back to life, and the sound of waves covering every ojek motor, goat, deer, rooster, and voice- leaving us with absolute peace  (Or as close as you can get while in Indonesia).

Unbelievably, I had even been here before.  Early last week we came to make a reservation and take a look around.  I suppose taking a look around in my proper (sleeved) Indonesian shirt is not the same as putting on my swimsuit and lying in a hammock for three days.

From where I sit in my hammock, slightly swaying in the ocean breeze, I can see a spectrum of ocean from absolutely crystal clear, to a deep blue at the coast of the neighboringisland a kilometer away.

There aren’t many sandy parts of the beach, just coral.  Coral Everywhere.  Mostly white or black, but sometimes blue or red as well.  You can watch the tide rise and fall about 100 meters each day.  It melts back throughout the afternoon so that every evening at sunset you can stand in what was the middle of the ocean just a few hours before, and watch the sunset over the mountains of Pantar Island.

Wow.

Posted by: patriciamar | September 4, 2009

Out to Sea

We have decided that, rather than flying, we will take a ship (Pelni) from Kalabahi, Alor, to Bali, on our way home.  From Bali, we will then fly to Jakarta, stay for one night, and then fly back to Belanda.  Belanda is Indonesian for Netherlands, or Holland, in case you didn’t guess.

Around here, you spend an awful lot of time explaining … Kami tenggal di Belanda (We live in Holland), tapi kami orang Amerika (but we are Americans).  Usually, this is quite confusing.  The Holland part is normal, virtually all foreign visitors to Indonesia are from Holland.  But the fact that we are American tends to throw people off. 

Ahh! Ca-li-fornia!  New York? 

No. Minnesota (and it’s okay that you have no idea where that is.) We usually just go with California for Matt and I umbrella under it. 

California!  Los Angeles!? 

No, Sacramento.

But they like this as well. 

Ahhh!  Sacramento! Ya, Ya!

And then of course, a short discussion on Barack Obama.

Ahhh!  Obama!  Obama!

Yes, Obama!

Obama tenggal di Indonesia!  Di Jakarta! (Obama lived in Indonesia! In Jakarta!)

Ya! Di Jakarta.  This is always a nice bonding point for us.  It is wonderful to have a likeable president…

Now back to our upcoming trip on the high seas…

Pelni ships are basically old-school cruise ships, and you can choose between first, second, third, fourth, and economy class.  Now, if you choose to be adventurous and google this on the internet, do not be alarmed at what you will find. There will be a number of terrifying accounts of taking a Pelni ship, and all of them, you guessed it, in economy class.  I apologize if one of these innocent bloggers ever comes across this blog, but if you have ever travelled in a country that is deemed a true third world, no offense Indonesia or Mexico (my countries of choice), you should not travel in economy.  The lowest class in these countries cannot be compared to travelling in economy in an airplane, it is simply another world.  Expecting no space, no air, no sunlight, bad food (if any), an abundance of cockroaches, and likely other friendly farm animals… this is just the start.

Matt and I, mostly because we will now be heading into our vacation section of the trip, have decided to take first class.  Fourth class is a little too close to Economy for me, third class is just rows of bed-like benches in a long hallway, and second class is separated by genders- so it is pretty much the only option left. 

To put this in perspective, the three days on the ship in first class, including food, will still cost less than flying from Kalabahi to Kupang to Bali.  So, we are looking forward to a new experience, hopefully some time to look out at the hundreds of islands that we will pass (we are supposed to have a window), and some time to sleep and relax as well. 

And I am still prepared for cockroaches.

Posted by: patriciamar | September 2, 2009

Chickens and A/C

Today has been a very good day so far.  It is only 10:00 a.m., and I have already felt the gentle and beautiful blow of air conditioning twice.  First, after my failed attempt to meet up with Mr. O and visit the Alor Kecil school, Pak picked me up on the way home in an air conditioned little blazer.  Later, on the way to the internet, I stopped at the atm and the atm vestibule was air conditioned. Plus, on the way to the ATM, I got to see a guy riding an ojek (small motorcycle) with someone on the back who was carrying two chickens in each hand (dead).

As I am typing this, I am at the internet café, but unfortunately, no internet.  If this ever makes it online, that means that eventually it started working.  So far, no bananas.  This may also explain why the internet café was closed yesterday, which it never has been before.

So far this week has been fairly slow and uneventful.  After Matt’s informant was unable to come on Sunday, it went downhill from there.  On Monday, we went to see Bapak Sere, who was also not there, but at least we took an ojek and had a nice ride across the island.  The scenery was beautiful and the road runs pretty much right along the coast, so it was almost like a little tour.  After arriving in Alor Kecil, although Bapak Sere was not there, we walked in the water down the coast until we ran into people we know (Fun!).  Two of the doctors that we met the week before, one who even stays at the same homestay as us, work in a little clinic in Alor Kecil.  We spent a few minutes talking with them and then headed back to Kalabahi with one of them as well.

Posted by: patriciamar | September 2, 2009

The worst guest ever

Recently, I had some good news from another Leiden student that spent some type here in Kalabahi. From what it sounds like,  he is similar to Matt.  No reaction to Lariam (evil malaria medication), no real problem with heat, etc. etc.  His wife, on the other hand, is much more similar to me.  She mandis (showers) six times a day, needs air conditioning, and even with numerous books to read, gets a little bored being inside for too long.  So, all things considered, I have decided that I am not the worst guest ever.  I do not even have air conditioning and can spend up to 5 hours reading in my room simply happy that there is a fan and no risk of mosquitoes.

Overall, this new discovery has greatly improved my mood here in Kalabahi.  I run the fan on high all day long and take 3 to 4 mandis a day with no worries and no guilt.

My next step just may be falling asleep without dreaming of air conditioning set to 68…

Posted by: patriciamar | August 29, 2009

Settling In

Today, when we returned from jalang jalang (walking around), some of the other guest of the homestay were just starting dinner.  Two of the guests were new, a German woman and her husband, an Indonesian from Lombok.  Although we had only been in Kalabahi for two days, and they had been there for three, they seemed to be impressed with how we were meeting people in the village (Alor Kecil) and talking to many people already (with the help of Pak Amos).  It was a great feeling to be able to tell them a few things and feel like you are helping someone.  I think this is one of the best ways to make someplace feel like home.  Nothing makes you feel settled in like being able to teach someone about the place or help them do something.

A normal day for us in Alor is very slow, with not too much going on.

Each day, we wake up early (compared to the Netherlands, where no one starts anything before 9 a.m.).  We get up around 6:30 (even though pretty much everyone else is already up by this time).  Then we have some kopi or teh (coffee or tea) with or without gula (sugar) and Ibu makes us Nasi goreng (fried rice) with egg for breakfast.  We sit around for a little longer, waking up and getting ready for the day, maybe talking to Pak (Mr.) a bit.

Around 9:30 or 10:00, Matt heads off to learn more Bahasa Alor (Alorese language).  He goes by bemo (a little van that is like a city bus) or by ojek (small motorcycle).  It takes him about 15-30 minutes to get to Alor Kecil (Little Alor) a village of about 2,000 people where there are many speakers of Alorese.

I stay at the homestay in Kalabahi or head to the internet café.  I generally spend the first few hours of the day reading, writing, listening to music, playing solitaire, but mainly just trying to stay cool.

Lunch is around 12:30 or 1:00.  Most days, Matt is back for lunch and we eat together with the other guests.  Everyday is rice with some type of fish (delicious, fresh, tropical fish!) and cooked vegetables and sometimes a cold vegetable salad.  There is always sambal (a spicy addition to any dish) as well.  Sometime we also have a strange new fruit like Jackfruit or Milk bananas (which are those little sweet bananas).

After lunch is naptime for most everyone.  It’s like the Mexican siesta, but you don’t really have to nap.  If you don’t sleep, you usually at least sit in the shade.  This is usually the hottest time of the day, when walking two blocks will earn a cold shower.  I have more or less decided that I will be sweating for the next 22 days.  I generally shower normally once a day (with soap and shampoo) and dump water over my head in the mandi at least once more, maybe twice.  At a certain point shampoo just doesn’t seem necessary.  I’m just going to dump water over my head again in twenty minutes.  (haha).  I will add at this point, that Matt showers or rinses once a day, but doesn’t think it is nearly as hot as I do (I don’t think he actually has sweat glands).

Later in the afternoon, Matt and I usually go for a walk around Kalabahi, sit out on the Veranda and read or play cards.  Usually, Matt works on making transcripts for his recordings and continues to work on his dictionary of Alorese words during the afternoon and evening as well.  At around 5:00, we usually head into the room for a few hours to sit by the fan.  The malaria mosquitoes are supposedly out at this time of day (dawn and dusk), and we’re usually ready for another short rest by that time already.

We eat at about 6:30 or 7:00 in the evening.  It has been fun getting to know some of the other people staying at the homestay.  The German/Indonesian couple, a few local doctors, and a guy from Surabaya who is buying seaweed to send to Surabaya to make into pudding (I do not know too much about this) and cashews to send to India.  An interesting fact for cashew lovers… He buys the cashews for about 8,000 rupiahs a kilo.  This is less $0.40 cents a pound.  Quite the mark up, eh?

In the evening, we continue to work (Matt) and read (Me), and then usually hang out on the veranda and chat for a bit more Indonesian practice.

We go to sleep at 10:00 or so (although I admit, sometimes we are in bed by 8:00).  The combination of the hot weather and the new environment can definitely wear you out quickly.

On a side note, I am just decided that by the way he looks, talks, and sings, the man who runs the internet café is actually Usher.  It’s interesting who you meet.  I am pretty sure I saw Jennifer Hudson in the bemo the other day as well…

Posted by: patriciamar | August 29, 2009

The Morning Riot

The first night in Alor, our fan was broken.  (Yes, I was devastated).  Fortunately, it cools down enough that you can still sleep pretty well.  By morning we are usually both covered by light scarf that we use as a sheet.  Without the humming of the fan, the first night was a real experience.  From probably 3 a.m., just as in Jogjakarta, the rooster begin to crow.  Around 4:00 or 4:30, I started to get a little nervous because I could shouting far away.  I couldn’t figure out exactly where it was coming from, because it seemed to be moving, but not coming closer or further away.  Eventually, after waking Matt up full of paranoia (probably a bit of Larium nervousness left over), he confirmed that he didn’t hear anything at all.

Well, if you know at all how Matt sleeps (like he’s dead), this was definitely not the case, but after a few more minutes of listening, I discovered, that the noisy riot was not people, but animals.  Birds, roosters, goats, pigs, and who knows what else.  I couldn’t believe it when I realized what I was hearing.  There were hundreds of roosters all crowing… Sending the message to everyone that light was coming.

Soon.

(by 6:00)

Around 5:00 or 5:30, you can hear a bit more noise outside.  This time, it was people out eating breakfast.  Because it is currently Ramadan, Muslims eat their first meal before sunrise.  Even after just a few days this has become a nice morning noise-  a few people up eating breakfast before the sun rises, then heading back to bed for an hour or two before they head off to work.

Posted by: patriciamar | August 25, 2009

Darwin

There is a pig that runs around the yard at Pak’s house.  From what I can tell, they call it Bapi.  I’m not sure if that means pig, or if that is its name.  I have decided to call it Darwin.  Not sure why.

Darwin is not a normal pig, but furrier and black and pink with an extra long snout.  At first I thought he was even a pot belly pig, but I don’t think so.

Several of the neighbors have pet deer that are tied to a tree.  I am not sure what this is all about.  I will investigate.

Posted by: patriciamar | August 25, 2009

Just an update

Here is a temporary post on our current situation.  Sorry, it’s really just an email.  I will write more in detail now that we know there is Internet, etc.

We are in Alor!  phew.. finally .  We went from Jogja to Surabaya to
Kupang and then our flight in Kupang got cancelled and rescheduled for
the next morning, and Finally, we made it to Kalabahi, on the island
of Alor yesterday morning about 8 a.m.  Much to our surprise (although
Matt had emailed them about our flight), Pak Amos (Mr. Amos, school
supervisor for the region) and Pak Kris (the man whose homestay we are
staying at) were there at the airport to pick us up!  It was the
nicest thing ever!  Pak Amos is very very nice (as is Pak Kris), and
has taken us around to the neighboring village, Alor Kecil, where Matt
met people and set up appointments to do elicitations (wow!  what
progress already!)  The first thing he did was take us to the house of
head of the village, Bapak Sere (Mr. Sere), who was very friendly and
an island man in every way.

We saw Alor Kecil’s first house, which still had its original doorway,
from 1390, and inside the house, the man brought out the handwritten
original Koran of the town, from 1360.  It was very interesting to see
and amazing to see a book being paged through, right in front of you,
that is 600 years old.  Wow.  It looked like it should have been in a
museum!  Plus, the house was on a hill and overlooked the bay. It was
surrounded by mango, banana and jackfruit trees.

Our homestay is very nice.  Our ibu (host mother) is very very nice
and cooks delicious food.  She (Ibu Lili) is the wife of Pak Kris who
is very friendly and definitely an island entrepreneur.

Well, we just wanted to let you all know that we made it here and are
just getting settled in.  The weather is very nice and actually cools
down a bit at night (to maybe 70 degrees).

Last night we got to participate in a birthday party for one of the
other girls staying at our homestay.  Interestingly, the people at the
party (about 16 people)  were almost all doctors.  There is a program
that sends doctors to Alor (and other poorer regions of Indonesia) and
many of them are staying at our homestay.  They are very nice and most
are around our age, so I think we already have some friends!

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