Posted by: patriciamar | October 12, 2009

Goes

There is a small town in the Netherlands in between Rosendaal and Middleburg by the name of Goes.  I am certain that this is a lovely and quaint town; Even though, thus far, I have only seen it from the train passing through its station.

Now, I am sure you pronounced the name of this town like the third person form of the verb, to go

She goes to Goes.

But no.  Dutch is much more extraordinary than that.  Goes is actually pronounced something like goose, except instead of the /g/ sound, it is more like a /h/ in the back of your throat.  Unfortunately, it is the sound you make when you are about to spit. (It’s actually called a voiced uvular trill, but I am sure you have little to no interest in that.) 

Goes (hoose)

 And with the [s], let it whistle softly in your teeth a bit.

 Now try again.

 Goes.

 She goes to Goes.

 With a name like that, how can it not be a lovely place?

Posted by: patriciamar | October 7, 2009

A Sneak Coffee at De Blaffende vis

Here we are sitting at De Blaffende vis, (a local café, The Barking Fish), the cheapest Amsterdam café that we have seen in a while. A nice coffee costs only 1.50 euro, and a cappuccino or Koffie verkeerd (~latte) just 1.70 euro. We have the pleasure of sitting at a table next to a Dutch father and son, who seem to be out in Amsterdam for a nice tosti lunch. 

The father orders- a coffee, of course; a cheese tosti; and then turns to his son, who is about three years old, and asks, Wil je een koffie? Do you want a coffee?

This takes me a bit by surprise, considering his age, and because he was so little that he was struggling to climb the stairs to the top floor of the café. But soon, I realize the strategy of the Dutch father.

Ya! says the little boy. (Of course).

So, a coffee for me, and a coffee for him, says the father loudly in Dutch to the waiter. And as the waiter turns to go, he quickly slips in, (much more quietly) But make his just warm milk with a bit of foam on the top.

Ah, fatherhood. There’s always a way.

Posted by: patriciamar | October 7, 2009

Taking 100 to Poelgeeststraat

Our new Leiden apartment is situated in the middle of a quiet Dutch neighborhood partway down Poelgeeststraat.  Besides the fact that it is sitting right in the heart of Leiden, the best part of this neighborhood is simply its Dutchness.  There are small families, plenty of bicycles, and cozy row houses lining the street lamp lined street.

Last night, as we were once again daydreaming about the day we get to move in (!), we strayed to contemplating the street name, Poelgeeststraat.  Initially, we both thought it sounded most similar to Poltergeist, but we soon decided that that just couldn’t be it.

It probably has something to do with water management, Matt said.

And of course, I agree, almost everything here in the Netherlands has at least something to do with water management.

Eventually, we stopped debating what Poelgeest might mean, and just looked it up.  It literally translated as abutted mind street, which I think, overall, is quite a nice name.  I don’t mind the Dutch way of thinking, so hopefully through time, with their row houses butted up against mine, their mild and livable demeanor will start to rub off.

 

 

Also…

This particular entry happens to be my one hundredth post.  Although I couldn’t come up with something so stupendous and important that it deserved to be the 100th post, we love Leiden, and we are very excited to move to Poelgeeststraat, so I thought this would do.   At any rate, I hope I will be sitting in my row house in Poelgeeststraat looking out at our neighbors orange cat when I post number 200.

Posted by: patriciamar | October 6, 2009

Chippendales

Ahhh, my favorite group of artistic performers…

Well, not exactly artistic performs in the traditional sense, but still, quality performers through and through.  As you know, (and as many of you probably disparage…) the people of the Netherlands do things a little differently.

Earlier last month, the public transportations system in the Netherlands, including buses, trains, trams, light rail, and metro, made the switch from paper strippenkaart (strip tickets) to an electronic system using a plastic transportation card.  This is a step that many cities around the world have made (including Minneapolis, recently) to update their system of payment to be easier, more automated, and to include less change-giving for the drivers and conductors of transit vehicles.

Just to make sure that citizens of the country remembered the big day to switch, the Dutch stationed Chippendales employeessporting t-shirts stating, “Ik stop met strippen,” you can roughly translate this as, I no longer strip.  But English just doesn’t do it justice.

Perhaps more countries should use such creative ways to get the point across…

 

For the full article, go to: http://www.dutchamsterdam.nl/731-amsterdam-public-transport-chippendales

Posted by: patriciamar | October 2, 2009

Leiden’s Day

All of Leiden is excited!  Carnival games and rides are up and running, the cotton candy (suikerspin!) is selling, and the whole city center smells of deep-fried oliebollen and poeder suiker (powdered sugar). 

I am in Leiden at my favorite cafe, dipping koekjes in my cappuccino foam and watching and feeling the level of excitement rise all around me.

As usual, the light rain doesn’t seem to be affecting anyone as they go about their cafe-hopping and shopping the pre-holiday sales.  Various stages have been erected throughout the city, where no doubt, cover bands, djs and traditional Dutch music will be blaring within a short 24 hours.  The streets and sidewalks have all been expanded by the various flats and barges brought in and strung to the sides of the canals.  Some such areas literally stacked with kegs of Heineken.  It is finally Leiden’s day, Leiden Ontzet, every October 3, when people from around the country come to toast the city’s successful perserverance through the seige of the Spanish in 1574.

Well, it may be more of a theoretical toast…It’s possible they’re all here for the beer and oliebollen.  One can never be quite sure when it comes to Dutch partying.

Posted by: patriciamar | October 1, 2009

Queen Beatrix

I just thought I would mention that while Matt and I were away in Indonesia, one of the Leiden academic buildings was reopened (after a long construction project), and the Queen came to officially reopen it.

The Queen.
Queen Beatrix.
Queen of the Kingdom of the Netherlands.

Before this, I had never experienced living in a country with a Queen, nor had I ever attended a University so old and prestigious that the leader of the country attends the ceremony for reopening an academic building. I suppose her Majesty probably wouldn’t attend all building reopenings, but since this particular building was the first academic building of Leiden University and was built in 1516, she probably decided it was worth her time.

(The Academiegebouw, although built in 1516, didn’t actually become a university building until 1581, or so says http://nl.wikipedia.org/wiki/Academiegebouw_(Leiden).

Posted by: patriciamar | September 30, 2009

Dear Readers,

Thank you all for reading during our trip to Indonesia. Thanks especially to those of you who have always been reading!

Just to let you know, this actually isn’t just a blog about Indonesia, but something I started last winter in the Netherlands. I plan to continue, so please continue to read when you have a spare moment, and I will try to keep you entertained. If you are interested, there is a way to subscribe (or RSS feed) to the blog (there should be a button in the right hand column), so that you can see when it is updated.  Unfortunately, after a bit of experimenting, I am not exactly sure how this works.  It seems pretty simple to have my blog updates posted on your Google homepage when it opens, but this seems a bit extreme to me.  I will continue to look into this, but until then, I suppose checking my site every once in a while is the best way…

Also, in case you are confused by the sudden appearance (or sometimes disappearance) of posts, I am able to go back [in time] and add posts whenever I have time. I will probably do this quite a bit for my time in Indonesia, because this blog is as much for my own records and memories as it is to be read by others. Now if only Matt would subscribe…

haha.

If you choose to go back and check out any past posts that I have only recently added, I especially recommend ‘Proselytizing Ojek Drivers.’ I recommend it mainly because it is one of the funniest things that has ever happened to me, and things like that just don’t come along every day.  Plus, it all happened on the back of a motorcycle taxi.

Well, thanks again –

& happy reading!

Posted by: patriciamar | September 30, 2009

Recalling Dutch

Needless to say, I am now working to recall all the Dutch language skills that are stored (hopefully) somewhere in my brain.  In Indonesia (although I was able to speak a bit of Dutch on the plane there), we immediately started in on 25 hours of intensive Indonesian language lessons.  This type of activity obviously has the effect of pushing other languages right out.  After five straight hours of private language lessons, I could hardly speak English properly, let alone Dutch.

Once we arrived in Kalabahi, we began working towards our real goal for the trip to Indonesia- documenting Alorese, a new language.  Soon we were spouting out random words in Alorese mixed with random Indonesian words- whether we knew the English translation or not.

One such example, Alorese: Pana-Pana is Jalang-Jalang in Indonesian.

Roughly speaking, these means wandering in English, although Dutch, wandel is a more accurate translation.

Then we headed to Pulau Kepa (Kepa Island) for our four days of island rest and relaxation.  Although it is clearly a tourist destination, and Indonesian was no longer the lingua franca, judging by the name of the resort, La Petite Kepa, it certainly wasn’t a place to speak English either.  So- soon I was mumbling the little French that I know to the other vacationers, mostly French or Swiss.  (I admit, in most cases their English was much better than my French, so we got by…).

Then we headed back to Kalabahi to more Indonesian and Alorese.  Once our time in Kalabahi ended, we decided to treat ourselves to a week in Bali where, not surprisingly, almost everyone spoke English (although it seemed to be a bit more ‘stralian than ours was…)

Finally, we flew home (back to Europe, at least) and the plan landed in Europe.  More specifically, we landed in Dusseldorf.  Instantly, I realized that this homecoming was not going to be in English either.  Again, it was my turn to be the speaker, since my German beats Matt’s.  Although he does a fairly good job of spitting out some Dutch whenever he thinks there are enough cognates (cognates are words that are the same in both languages).  So now- we’re back in the Netherlands, where I am working to refresh my Dutch, but where they speak better English than most ‘stralians…

(just kidding). But their English is unbelievable.

& I told Matt that he has to learn Italian.  It’s only fair.

& he agreed.  Viva Italia!

Posted by: patriciamar | September 24, 2009

To a place that makes my heart flutter

I woke up this morning in the most comfortable and cushy bed with an amazingly fluffy duvet, the chilly air biting my nose, and my heart fluttered.  I was back in Europe.  And today, today, I was going back to Leiden.

Posted by: patriciamar | September 24, 2009

Jakarta Jakarta Jakarta

After the slow  island life of Alor, driving into Jakarta is a blast into modernized society.  The drive itself was what I most dreaded about Jakarta.  It normally takes at least an hour to get into the city- and that’s without any extra traffic problems.  Fortunately, we went to the right place at the right time, and as thousands of Indonesians traveled from Jakarta to Bali, Singapore, Hong Kong, or other vacation spot, we flew to an empty Jakarta.  Coincidentally, we visited Jakarta precisely on Eid ul-Fitr (Idul Fitri in Indonesian), the holiday that marks the end of Ramadan and a month of fasting for Muslims.

Instead of entering a stuffy, polluted, traffic jam of a city, Matt and I took a 35 minute taxi ride into a city of dazzling modern skyscrapers, international businesses, fountains, huge boulevards, and so many lights and so much color that it almost reminded me of visiting Las Vegas.  Whether you love or hate big cities, Jakarta is a city of another caliber, and you really have to see it to understand… You just can’t compare it to normal cities.   

I suppose the line must be drawn somewhere around 20 million people, because the only place it seems to resemble is Mexico City, where the city goes on and on for so far- that you have stopped being able to comprehend just how huge it is. 

Now I admit, nearly everyone I talked to anywhere else in Indonesia hated Jakarta.  Too big, too busy, too hot, too smoggy.  I also admit, that because we went on a holiday, we were given a gap of fresh air that few people experience when they visit.  With this being said, I thought that Jakarta was a fabulous city.  There are people from everywhere, working in all areas of business- NGOs, embassies, tourism, trade, etc., etc., etc.  When you’re tired of the city and need to get away, you head towards the coast, where there is a string of tiny islands to visit, some so small that you walk or bike around them.  You can rent a motorboat for a ride or for a day and head out to your favorite spot on an island of ten instead of 124 million.  You can get delicious Indonesian food at a street stand, in a neighborhood warung (small family restaurant), in an upscale restaurant, or at the mall.

Speaking of malls, if you at all interested in shopping, Jakarta is apparently the place to go.  The dozens of insanely sized malls in Jakarta are impeccably clean, have huge varieties of shops- both Asian and International- huge movie theaters, benches where you can sit and eat ice cream and watch Indonesian families stroll, and a food court that I could probably live in…

I probably sound like a git telling everyone how much I liked the mall food court (I really have been telling everyone), but if you like Asian food at all, this is like heaven.  Any type of Thai, Korean, Japanese (both noodles & sushi!), Indonesian, Chinese, Indian, Sri Lankan… they are all there, and they all cost around $3 for a full meal.  Of course, since it is indeed a food court, it isn’t like eating an authentic meal in the country- but really- so much better than pretty much anything we have in the U.S. that it’s no contest.  I could live in the food court.  The walls cascading with water and bamboo poles dividing the sections of tables don’t hurt either.

Did I mention that most of the malls are at least five stories high, sometimes eight or nine and with sometimes thirty stories of condos above them?  Six towers of thirty stories of condos?  It’s an experience- and I hate to say it, but I am from Minnesota so I actually do have the Mall of America to compare it to.

If you’re ever in the area- it’s a city worth visiting.

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