Posted by: patriciamar | April 12, 2010

Train Picnic Envy

I can’t deny that this is quite the lifestyle we are having.   Even Matt’s grandpa, who has been retired for more than 20 years, says when he dies, he would like to come back as Matt.   After Italy a week ago and the south of France a week before that, we are now back on the train, the Thalys this time, on our way to Paris to see my cousin, Alyssa, who is studying there this semester.

As we sit in our cozy reservering verplicht seats (reservation required), I can look diagonally across and down the aisle of the train and watch the most extraordinary woman.  This woman is obviously Dutch, and definitely knows how to travel by train.  As soon as the train pulled away from Rotterdam Centraal, she filled up a little (typical Dutch) cafe glass with white wine and set out a beer for her husband.  Next came the plate, yellow and plastic, and then a large packet of crackers, a few for her, a few for her husband, and a few for the person across the aisle that she just handed a small plastic cup of juice to.  After the crackers came a nice silver knife and next, well, my mouth starts watering just thinking about what comes next.  Cheese, delicious Dutch cheese.  Old Amsterdammer, to be exact, I can tell by the waxy black rind.  She starts to make blokjes, nice large blokjes, like they give you in a Dutch cafe when you order a plate of cheese as an appetizer or snack.  After the Oud Amsterdammer, a salty, flavourful, native Dutch cheese, she pulls out a soft and stinky round of French cheese and begins to spread it on crackers.

Maybe she wanted variety in her cheeses, maybe she figured she was on her way to France so she ought to pay a small tribute, either way, I glance down sadly at my peanut butter and jelly.  While it seemed like a good idea at the time, now it just seems like quite a pitiful excuse for a train picnic.

Posted by: patriciamar | April 8, 2010

The Bonte Koe

We have discovered a new Leiden spot.  Although we have only been there twice, I think it’s exactly the type of cafe that we have been looking for.  We had always heard good things about the Bonte Koe, and finally stumbled upon it on a late evening walk one Wednesday night.  The cafe has one of those amazing locations.  It is hidden behind the Hooglandsekerk on a tiny back street, but somehow is still right off of the Hooigracht, a main Leiden thoroughfare.

The cafe is small and has a sort of wooden windowed patio that extends onto the pedestrian street.  As I first slid the door open, the smell of lilacs surrounded me.  A pot sat on each table, and out of each, three or four lilacs grew.  I’m not sure how lilacs normally grow, but these seemed to be growing from bulbs.  The Dutch could always do amazing things with flowers… Turns out they were hyacinths.

As we sat around the high wooden table, we looked around the cafe and observed our surroundings for the first time.  The cafe has been around since 1890, and the menu is put together like a photo album made from one of those free plastic albums you used to get when you had pictures developed.  There is a section telling all about the first owner with photographs of Leiden students from generations past.

Behind the counter, there is a giant cow painted onto ceramic tiles.  They serve more than a few beers, wines, and warm coffee drinks, most of them a bit more obscure or unique than in other cafes.  The type of cafe that Matt and I like to visit is the kind that has a bit more originality and individuality.  Nowadays, this can come in one of two forms, either the cafe is breaking out of the U.S. chain-cafe style and uses only organic or local products and serves fair trade coffee, or they really are an original cafe, and either never wanted to conform to the new chain-cafe style, or never got around to it.  The Bonte Koe is more in the second category.  They make their own bitterballen, a nice potato-puree-based fried Dutch treat, they serve ringed sausages from a local slagerij (butcher), and they have an unknown beer on tap that costs just 1.60.

These original cafes are quite hard to find, but when you find them, it is always a treat.  Matt’s uncle, a resident of Vienna, always explained the city’s planning in a similar way.  While many other European cities were getting rid of their trams and building highways across the city, the city officials of Vienna were thinking…  Thinking about whether they were ready to get rid of their simple loops of plain red and white trams that circled the numbered districts.  Later, when the cities, newly criss-crossed with highway and interstate systems, were trying to figure out how to restore their once peaceful centers, Vienna continued on, the same tram circling the first district and the offshoots connecting the center with the rest of the city.

I suppose the moral of all this is to be patient.  Good things come and go, sometimes slowly and sometimes quickly.  While you might miss out if you don’t hurry up and jump on the bandwagon, good things come to those who wait as well.

Now, off to the Bonte Koe.

Posted by: patriciamar | April 7, 2010

Go-Go-ing, Going, Gone….

The baseball season has begun. 

All over North American, spring is showing up on baseball fields and in climate-controlled domes.  Lucky for Minnesotans, The Twins will now host in the former, rather than the latter.  Sweet freedom at last!  (It’s just too bad we can’t support education with tax increases like we can support state sports teams… but that’s a whole ‘nother ball game).

What I’d really like to know, is whatever happened to Go-Go?

The life and energy of the outfield, a fair bit faster than anyone (though Span can keep up, I admit), but why did he get traded?  That-  Is the question. 

& I think I have the answer…

You would have to be living under a rock not to notice the strange dedication the Twins Roster shows to the letter J.  Justin Morneau, Joe Mauer, Joe Nathan, Jason Kubel, Jose Mijares, they welcomed back Jacques Jones with open arms too. 

I soon found myself wondering, if Carlos Gomez was named Jarlos Jomez, would he still be with the Twinks?  Maybe so.  I mean who was he traded for!?  J.J. Hardy!  Two J’s!  Could they be any more obvious?!  It’s a sad day when the J.J.’s push out the Go-Go’s.

Posted by: patriciamar | March 6, 2010

& a few excellent morning songs

People Should Smile More, Newton Faulkner

Her Morning Elegance, Oren Lavie

Posted by: patriciamar | March 6, 2010

Pillows

I woke up this morning on my futon and the sun was pouring in on me. I had left the blinds open six inches, just for the possibility of this occurring. It has been sunny all week (minus last night), and after a looonng, rainy, winter, there is nothing like bright sunshine waking you up in the morning.

The sunny wake-up call is just another reason for me to want to sleep on [the best ever] futon every night. Matt is pretty strict… says we should sleep in our bed. But really! The futon is so much more comfortable, has no ladder (the bed is lofted), and what if we have to move in five months!? I can’t take the futon with me. I would forever regret the nights when I didn’t sleep on it when I could have.

Luckily, Matt is fairly easy to convince. (He knows it is better too)…So we sleep there quite frequently.

I woke up this morning and after a Toad in the Hole or two, flopped down on my couch (not the futon, the couch), on about 13 pillows. For some reason, when I am looking for things to do nowadays, I am drawn to making pillows. I am not sure how it all started, but it is a nice way to spend a sunny morning, or afternoon… or late evening. I think I would probably like to sew other things, but with no sewing machine here, and no tools other than thread and a needle, a pillow is really the best choice.

I also think it makes my house feel comfy….

Well, my coffee is now done, and I am expected at Matt’s basketball game in about an hour with a stop at the market for kaas before that.

Posted by: patriciamar | February 7, 2010

A Review: Three Cups of Tea

I started reading Three Cups of Tea, and soon, my mind was racing. Even after I had finished, I had to read the acknowledgements just to remind myself that, yes, it was a real story. The events in the book actually happened; People really can make this much of a difference. The book is so energizing, so full of truth, and so real, I truly could not decide who I wanted to pass the book onto first.

Now that I have finished this amazing account of Greg Mortenson’s repeated trips and trials through Pakistan and Afghanistan, I cannot help but think that it should stay on my shelf forever. While providing the opportunity for thousands of children to receive an education, the situations that he gets himself into and out of are nothing short of terrifying, yet he somehow continued for longer than I thought anyone could live off of will alone.

When I am looking for inspiration and a way to rejuvenate my belief in hope, this is where I will turn. The selfless steps Mortenson takes each day remind you that if you take things moment by moment, one step at a time, unbelievable things really can be accomplished.

If you are interested in the world, it will inspire you further, and if you are uninterested and uniformed, you should read the book as well, if simply to reaffirm the fact that peace and education go hand in hand. I hope that I will never again doubt overenthusiastic or hard-charging ideals, whether they are mine or someone else’s, because now, after reading about his story, I cannot imagine thinking that something is impossible.

Three cups of tea : one man’s mission to fight terrorism and build nations- one school at a time / Greg Mortenson and David Oliver Relin.

Website for the Central Asia Institute: https://www.ikat.org/ 

Please keep in mind that if you buy the book off of the link on the above site, part of the proceeds go to the Central Asian Institute!  Thanks!

Posted by: patriciamar | February 1, 2010

Cycling in Leiden

So. Biking in Leiden. This post is for people who actually live in Leiden, will be moving to Leiden, or are interested in bicycling in Leiden.

First things first:
Buying a bike

Overall, the best way to find a bike is to scope out the various bicycle shops with used and new bicycles. If you are a student, you can also go along with ISN (International Student Network) on their bicycle crawl at the start of each semester. They also buy bicycles (but for no more than 20 euros, I believe), so they can either sell you a bicycle, or show you some shops where you can buy them.

The two main shops that I have frequented are Fiets2000 (Lange Mare 72, 2312 GT Leiden) and the two bicycle shops by the station. There is one in front of the station and one in the back, although I was told by one of the bicycle repairmen that they are actually the same store. There is also a Used Goods store on the Hooigracht near the Albert Heijn that sells bicycles and other random things.  We purchased our bicycles at the station shops, (mine in the front, Matt’s in the back) for 100 euros each. From what I have found, this is a pretty good price. Most people I talked to bought their bicycles for 80 – 125 euros. I would say both of us have quality bicycles and besides a flat tire or a broken light (these things happen…) we have had no real problems.

As a general rule, I would say that- upon entering the Netherlands, you should throw out your previous assumptions and ideas about bicycle riding. It is different here, and it’s best if you just do what they do and bike how they bike. You will be much better off.

This basically means:
No racing bikes,
No mountain bikes,
No speed racing on your bike

Dutch bikers (unless they have a racing bicycle that they take out into the country) all have cruisers and they sit up straight when they are biking. If you give it a try, although it may seem slower at first than your previous biking, you will soon find that it is much more relaxing to commute this way, and much safer, as well. When you are sitting up, you can see almost 360 degrees around you. This will help you to see cars, pedestrians, other bikers, children, dogs, trains, etc., etc. Compare this to riding on a mountain or racing bike where you have to lean forward and you should be able to understand how much worse your visibility is.

So, more on riding your bike…
I have found that bicycles tend to get away with quite a lot in terms of where and how they can bike. Cyclists seem to take the best rules for pedestrians and the best rules for cars and then slide right through the middle, taking the right of way. This is beautiful if you have ever biked in the U.S., where the car is king and you could be run over at any second. But- keep in mind that the Dutch have been biking since they were two. Literally, I asked someone. They have a little wooden bike (with no pedals) that they start out on, learning to keep their balance, and they are easily cycling with their parents by the time they are three or four. Insane. & Impressive.

Anyway, a few things that are important in terms of legality and safety. If you see triangles painted on the road, and they are pointing towards you (they are called shark’s teeth), this means yield. As in -You: Yield. Following this will keep you out of a lot of trouble. Also, bicycles sold by a shop in the Netherlands must have a front and back light and bell. This also means that the police can ticket you if your bike does not have them. Personally, I think they are pretty lax about it overall, but be careful at the start of the semester. You will most likely get a ticket, as they try to set out the year by setting a good example. During these times, also try to walk your bike in pedestrian zones. I have heard of people being ticketed for this as well.

Parking & Locking your bike:  It is always a good idea to lock up your bike… (obviously).  Surprisingly, most Dutch people just use a cuff (a sort of hand cuff that locks the backwheel so it can’t be rolled away).  Unless they are older and have an expensive bicycle, they will generally only have this one type of lock.  These locks are usually already on the bike when you buy it.  If you bike does not have one and you want one,  I would suggest going to the bike shop and having them put it on.  They seem like they would be a pain to put on yourself.  The other option (as a first or second lock) is a basic chain lock.  This is probably the second most popular type of lock.  You can use it to lock your wheel so it cannot be rolled away (which is what Matt does) or you can use it to lock your bike to something.  The U-Lock that seems to be popular in the U.S. is much less popular here.  It is sometimes used as a second lock or on motor bikes…

Repairing your bike: Over the course of two years, you end up doing a few repairs every now and then.  For repairs, I recommend hitting up the tiniest and most ghetto looking repair shops possible.  These shops tend to do the best repairs and charge the least.  The biggest problem you might run into is that they are also less likely to speak good English.   Usually, the old men that work in these shops are just so friendly that it doesn’t seem to matter.  In particular, I like the bicycle garage in the Jordaan area of Amsterdam on the north side of Westerstraat.  Unfortunately, I don’t remember the name of it, but I went there several times when I was living there in Amsterdam and they were always quick, inexpensive and helpful.  When I went in for a flat, for example, they patched it first, but when the patch didn’t work and I came back in, replaced the tube minus the cost of the first visit.  I also went in for some broken spokes which they repaired wonderfully.

In Leiden, I have gone to the bike shop on the front of the station where an older man works.  He was always very friendly and helpful.  I went there for small things like a broken light.  They tend to be quite busy, so bigger repairs tend to take a bit longer.  I also really like a little bicycle repair shop in Leiden just off of Korte Mare on 3e Binnevestgracht.  I had the man there replace my whole back wheel and he did a wonderful job and was done in an astonishingly short amount of time (like an hour an a half).  It was also very cheap, considering the cost of parts.  On a number of occasions, I went to Fiets 2000 for repairs, but almost everytime, I left unsatisfied.  They either didn’t check what I asked them to, and did something else, did only one of the things I asked, or perhaps they didn’t listen to me at all.  They tended not to look at the bike at all when you come in to drop it off, and thus when you return, they decide that’s the time to explain what’s wrong (duh.).  It usually left me quite frustrated.  I think they are probably still a good place to purchase a bike, I would head somewhere else for repairs.

Although I could probably go on forever about Dutch biking culture, this is probably enough for now. 

Just keep a few things in mind:

You will never be as good at cycling as a Dutch person, but still, just relax, it is such a nice way to get around!

&

Your bike might get stolen or thrown into a canal… Unfortunately, this just happens.

Success!

Posted by: patriciamar | January 31, 2010

Prins Bernhard

I have just heard that there is a new show on Dutch television about the life and times of Prince Bernhard, whom I know nothing about, other than the fact that he was a member of the Dutch royal family.  The show is called, Bernhard schavuit van Oranje.  Not that I have a tv.

Apparently, the show takes place in the Paleis Soestdijk, in Soestdijk, which is located between Hilversum and Amersfoort, more or less in the western central part of the Netherlands.  The Soestdijk Palace was formerly the home of Queen Juliana (the mother of the current queen, Queen Beatrix) and Prince Bernhard.  Since the start of the show, the Soestdijk Palace has had a huge influx of visitors.  As a crazy foreigner, I can see why.  I have now put the palace on my “to visit” list.  I am not really sure what exactly it is, but the whole idea of a royal, family, queen, princes, etc.,  just draws me in!  This is probably mostly because I come from a country with none. (Only movie stars-yuck.)  More on the Dutch royal family and my visit to the Soestdijk Palace later. 

No king or other hereditary ruler…

The signers of the Declaration of Independence would be quite disappointed in my interest…

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eeqfwLbQU1g&feature=player_embedded (It looks good, doesn’t it?!?)

Posted by: patriciamar | January 31, 2010

Looking out over the rose garden

He stood at the edge of the balcony looking out at the sea of people, all staring up at him, waving and chatting from within the edges of his perfectly manicured garden.

He had been so hopeful at the start, so ready to make a difference, to bring people together.  Now, the halfway point, he was standing here- waving every once in a while, giving an ambiguous head nod here and there, to no one in particular. 

His situation had not been ideal.  They were in a war, and he needed to get out; they were in debt, and he needed to get out; they were arrogant, self-centered, and self-serving, and this too, he needed to get out of, but did not know how to do it. 

He felt like a playground bully at times.  When it comes down to it, a bully never really has friends, only followers that are afraid to do otherwise… He tried to think back to when he was a kid.  He pictured what it was like to play basketball on the school playground.  The boys there, laughing and having a good time- were they friends? How had he met them?  It certainly had never been like this, he thought.  He had never been the bully, never wanted to be.

He tried to imagine himself to be someplace else, in some other garden, leading some other people.  Suddenly, it seemed a lot easier to think about making progress, making improvements.  It seemed easier to think about providing food, rather than a health plan.  He wondered.

Posted by: patriciamar | January 27, 2010

Sheep tracks in the Snow

Today, I took a day trip to Haarlem- just to get out and see a bit more of the world now that I am working and busy in Leiden (hurray!).  As you have probably heard, it has been a bit colder and snowier than usual in the Netherlands (and in the rest of the world).  On the twenty minute train ride from Leiden to Haarlem, I got to see a world of white, complete with a few frozen canals and a maze of sheep tracks criss-crossing the snowy fields.

Haarlem was wonderful and it was even warm enough for me to skip the bus and make the walk into the center.  I spent the day mostly wandering around and visiting charming cafes.  On the way to the Frans Hals Museum, I found one tiny cafe and sandwich shop that charged only 1.25 for a coffee!  It appeared to be full of regulars and provided local newspapers to pass the time- which I enjoyed as well.  Mid-way through, there was a bit of commotion and -although I did not fully understand- terminated with the owner shuffling around outside looking over and under everything and finally returning to say that yes- whatever it was, it was still there, in the old woman’s bike.

Good to know.

The Frans Hals Museum was very nice and had much more than only Frans Hals.  There were many of his portraits, as well as those of Judith Leyster, known to be the first female Master painter.  I like her work a lot and was sad to read that once she got married (to another painter), she all but stopped painting so she would not be competing with her husband…

The museum itself was great because it is situated in a former almshouse (hofje) for older men.  The small rooms surrounded a very nice courtyard garden and visitors were able to read all about the men who lived there and the things that they had to have to be residents (i.e. 5 clean shirts and 5 sleeping hats…).  Is there anyone who still wears nightcaps?  I know a lot of people who drink them.

It was also quite gezellig (cozy) in the museum because of the nice museum cafe which caused the smell of kaas toasti’s to float cozily around the whole museum.

(please note, toasti’s is actually spelled this way in Dutch, and the apostrophe is a Dutch apostrophe, not an English one, so it does belong there.  It signals the presence of a missing -i)

After the museum, I wandered back up towards the markt and the giant church in the center of Haarlem.  I found a nice bar/cafe that looked out over the plein and spent a few hours drinking cappuccino and writing.  Eventually, I wandered back to the train station and took a train back to Leiden.  Although I considered getting off in Heemstede for a look around, I was on such a nice train (the newest) that I just couldn’t make myself get off and go back out in the mist.  Plus, thanks to my new REI thermos (thanks Brad!), my tea from the morning train was still hot and made for a very nice train ride back to Leiden.

All over the Netherlands, cyclists were bundled up to make their evening commutes.  My own bicycle has been struggling as well.  My lock seems to protest any winter usage, and the button of my back light simply refused to budge for several days last week.  Although I suppose I could have gotten a ticket for not having a back light, I decided the Politie (police) might understand that it really does work, just not this week…

I guess tomorrow I am back to work.  Plus, the new international students have arrived and Matt and I will be helping with Introduction Days on Thursday and Friday.  Tours, answering questions, and explaining how to register… just like old times at OFYP at the U of M!

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